A Bronx Cheer
Thank God we can't see into the future. If you ever got even a tiny whiff of what was going to happen you would just stay home, never ever leave the house, get in bed and lock the door, and that would be it. Then though, what about the earthquake that might leave you buried under a pile of rubble....you and your cats all together, taking your final breaths. These ideas are where my imagination takes me, so being me is not easy. It's merciful that we are all left wondering 'What will happen?' Of course good things happen too...surprising moments of hilarity and even beauty, but I never think of those possibilities because I don't want to be disappointed if they don't come along.
When mom got ill many years ago I went to New York to take care of her. This was not Manhattan, but a little island off the borough of the Bronx, about a mile in diameter. David Letterman made a funny clip about this place, in which he said 'It's where the Bronx meets New England', and it's true that as you drive onto the island you would think 'what a quaint little oasis of boatyards and marinas.' It takes about 3 days to fully grasp what the place is really about, which is the people, many of whom are proud to never have entered Manhattan. The main street is dotted with fish restaurants called ' Seafood Shanty' and 'Neptune's Castle'. There's the 'Lobster Box' and 'Johnnie's Reef' at the very end of the island, which is all about fried clams. Along with these selections are a handful of Italian places. The Bronx is home to a huge number of Sicilians. These dining spots are all heavy on the red sauce, which they call 'gravy'. It was in one of these establishments that I found myself working as a prep chef for 10 bucks an hour. I could walk there from mom's house, and although the work was brutal, as all food jobs are, and the pay low, I was so grateful to have a place to go each day that was normal and busy. To this day my mantra is 'Have a place to go.'
It was an all-female operation, which I found delightful, and we worked together with no big ego problems, which can happen in a kitchen with a male head chef. We didn't even have a head chef exactly, but there was Franny, who made the specials early in the morning, traditional Italian dishes like chicken cacciatori and spaghetti with clam sauce. As I said, heavy on the 'gravy'. She also worked the griddle on weekends when we did a brisk brunch trade. Everyone on the Island new Franny, and she was one memorable gal....the toughest woman I've ever met. I'm talking Bronx tough, which is hard as nails inside and out. I adored her. She took a special interest in me, maybe because I had a sick mom at home. She was always kind and never critical when it came to me....but everyone else was fair game.
One Sunday we were short a waitress and they sent me out there to deal with the lunch crowd. This was my idea of hell. Give me something inanimate to work with....food of any kind, paint of any kind, mediums that I can control, and I will work hard...I will conquer them....I will do it without complaint...but don't put me out among the public. I would rather stick needles in my eyes. But there I found myself, waiting on a crowd of regulars who loved the place. Some of these customers had familiar faces. When you live on a square mile of space you eventually recognize everyone. At one table sat a couple who kept a boat in the marina. They were a fixture on the Island, and not liked by many. Haughty Harry, and Betsy the Bitch. These were Islanders who worked in the city, and did things like attending Broadway theater and reading the New York Times on Sunday....different from the norm, and not to be trusted. Harry ordered the Pasta Ala Franny, and Betsy, the Eggplant Parmesan. I brought them their meal, and after a few bites Betsy called me over to tell me the eggplant wasn't hot enough. I brought it back and shoved it into a 400 degree oven for a few minutes, telling Franny what had happened. She was so busy she hardly paid attention. I brought it back out and as Betsy took another bite she said 'Tell Franny this is the best Eggplant Parmesan I've ever had. That's just what I did. 'Betsy said to tell you that was the best Eggplant Parmesan she ever had.' Franny looked at me hard, and said 'Fuck huh.'
So when the day hands you a delightful surprise be sure to remember it always. After mom died I left that job and that island. Franny still lives there and has opened her own place, Fran's Trattoria. It's hugely popular and I hear the food is really good, if heavy on the gravy. Eggplant is a fruit, by the way, and very versatile. It has a meaty quality that's unusual, and it picks up the flavor of whatever you cook it with, so skip the red sauce and try this.
Smokey Spicy Aubergine Dip:
1 medium-size eggplant, peeled and sliced lengthwise into 2 inch-thick slices
1 teaspoon adobo sauce from a can of chilies en adobo
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon brown sugar
½ teaspoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon cumin
½ teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup orange juice (from the carton is fine)
.In a heavy small frying pan place a tablespoon of vegetable oil, and heat over a medium flame for a few seconds. Add all dry spices, brown sugar, garlic, adobo sauce, and tomato paste, and stir until the aroma is strong about 3 or 4 minutes. Set aside to cool in pan.
Fire up all 4 burners on the stove, and place a slice of eggplant on each, right on the burner. With a long pair of tongs flip each piece until charred slightly. You will see the marks of the burners on the flesh of the fruit. This is also the way you can roast peppers. Don't walk away, this is a process that must be watched carefully. When all slices are charred (there will be about 5 for a medium-sized eggplant), slice into small cubes. You can stack them and save some labor, first slicing lengthwise and then crosswise.
Take another tablespoon of vegetable oil and place in a heavy dutch oven and heat for a few seconds over a moderate flame, coating the bottom of the pot. Place eggplant and stir so it doesn't stick. When it starts to soften (about 5 minutes) pour in the orange juice, and stir for about 10-15 minutes. Take your pan of spices and paste. And add to eggplant. It will thicken quickly. This is what tomato paste does in a hot liquid. If it is too thick add a bit more orange juice. Simmer until eggplant is very soft, about 5 or 10 minutes. Let cool in pot.
Transfer to a food processor and pulse until smooth with some remaining chunky texture. This is a great dip served with pita or vegetables or just eaten with a spoon while reading the New York Times.